Thursday, October 28, 2010

5 Months Down, 7 Mice Down (the mice are winning)

October 7th

Four Months have come and gone. Holy Cow! Can you believe it??? I can barely believe how quickly the time has flown by and without any warning I am nearing the second week in October.
This last week I started teaching some lessons at the nutrition center. It only takes about thirty minutes out of my day (the walk there and back home takes more time), but I am learning that despite my lack of a health related degree or background, I am still leaps and bounds ahead of some of these women. What I have taken for granted as common sense and undeniable, is new to these mothers. I am sharing the knowledge that my mother had taught me before she would even allow me to have a watch (I had to be able to count to 60 flawlessly before I could have that totally sweet crayon watch I got for Christmas one year). So far we have covered complimentary breastfeeding (breast milk + other foods = healthy child), hand washing, and vitamin A. Tomorrow we are going to discuss personal hygiene. I have been dispelling rumors about vitamin supplements causing diarrhea and making children sick. I am also trying, through constant and daily repetition, to express the importance of food variety (a child can not live on yam alone) and cleanliness (wash your food, your hands and your child's hands, its the lack of this behavior that is causing the diarrhea). The women seem to be learning or at least listening, getting them to participate is like pulling teeth...pulling teeth through a translator. The goal is to deliver this knowledge and hope they absorb it so they don't have to return to the center. Like my last job...not having any “customers” is a good thing. You want to be there for the service you can provide, not because you have to provide.



October 10th

I went to church again today. Fr. Phanuel informed me that October is the month of the rosary. (I had bought the little “how to” book two weeks prior.) Noticing today that rosaries were being offered for sale (the cheap plastic ones you get as a child), I began to ask Father how much, all the students had bought one (the congregation is now 10 people strong), and figured if the money in any way supported this church the money would be well spent. Before I could finish my question Fr. Phanuel gave me a rosary...a nice rosary with multicolored beads and chain linking them together. He explained to me that the saints on the medallion were the saints that represented the Mission he belonged to and then blessed it for me. The gesture alone moved me. While the rosary looks new and well cared for the little plastic bag it was in looks well traveled and as if it has housed that rosary for some time...I have a sneaking suspicion that Father gave me his rosary. From a church that has no ornaments, where the cross on the alter is a small plastic one, a priest that has to travel quite a distance on a bad road to do the Sunday Mass...this was a big gesture! I will take care of this rosary, probably more so than some of the others I acquired in my pre-Christer (Chreaster, Chrieaster, Christmas+Easter=?) youth. Today was a good feeling day.

Oh yeah...Has anyone ever rode their bike through the middle of a herd of cattle? I have! Thats right people I braved my bike through beef and horns and came out unscathed. (Those cows are probably used to it, but I felt brave).






October 20th

Of Propane, Cows and Mice

Those three things could probably sum up my day...probably even my week. A few days ago my propane tank changed its status to empty. Luckily empty came after my water was sufficiently warmed for my morning tea and oatmeal. When I first moved to Karaga I bought a coal pot and some coal...and sans propane I have been trying to use it with little success. I must be a sorry sight trying to light it, this morning my neighbor went to the neighboring building and borrowed pre-lit coals to help with mine (there are no easy starters—you light, pray, and use a braided palm frond fan and hope your little spark spreads to the other coals). This afternoon my other neighbor told me that I will suffer until I get my tank filled and insisted that I use his until mine gets filled. My tank/cylinder will be going to Tamale with the Carter Center/Guinea Worm guys...they are kindly taking it down for me, filling it and bringing it back. Thats right folks, no nearby corner gas stations to fill the tank, the nearest propane is a four hour dirt road journey away. I love my neighbors, though they laugh at me they take good care of me.

Today I also went with the Carter Center on their search for guinea worm cases and filter replacement/distribution in Karaga. Largely I was paired up with a local volunteer and went to several houses to replace filters-- if their filter was no good (we took the spoiled filter so they could not keep using it) or we gave filters to families that said they did not have any. Some people even stopped us between houses to grab a filter...I don't think all of them will use them and just wanted the freebie but even if a couple of people use them...Yay! At the end of the day the “volunteers” were paid with a bar of soap and 1 cedi. I tried to leave without taking either (Peace Corps already pays me to be a volunteer...so no double dipping), but the Carter Center guys insisted I at least take the soap when I told them they don't need to give me anything for my time and that I am here for them. I took the soap and the jesting from the other volunteers that I refused the money instead of giving it to one of them. But this was not even the important part of the day...during the case search my partner decided to take a small break in front of the butcher! The butcher was in the process of killing and skinning a cow! My morbid curiosity watched the whole thing...right up until my partner decided we need to go meet up with the rest of the volunteers. Throat slit to end its life (and bleed out a little) the butcher began the skinning process. Without skin/hide everything seemed to expand, it was gross and cool!

In other animal related news, I have a mouse update. I have killed seven, but now it seems I am left with the smart ones, the ones who know to avoid the traps and know I fear them more than they fear me. Today the little bastard crawled across my feet and squeemed me out! If anyone has any ideas for a better mouse trap they would be appreciated...never in my life have I had a greater appreciation and understanding of man's unending quest to “build a better mouse trap”


October 26th

Power has been out all day. I joked two days ago that I prayed for rain (on Sunday) and that my prayer was answered...I think too many people prayed for rain, it has been raining since. It is supposed to be the dry season, or at least the beginning of it. I love the rain, it cools everything down and makes sleeping at night possible. However, rain means the power goes out, my freezer defrosting all over my floor, and me stuck inside in the dark (cuz of that no lights thing). I also have not been to Tamale for about a month now, and am going a little bit stir crazy. I love my neighbors and co-workers at the center, but I need some American contact, or a least a conversation guaranteed not to be awkward, limited by language, or centered on how I am not married or should be someone's third wife!

Because of the “rain” I ditched out on the center today. Teaching lessons is fun, but getting the women to participate is still like pulling teeth and I know my translator is not telling me everything. I say one or two words and she gives a whole speech...a woman who has decided to participate gives a whole speech and I only get one or two words translated. According to the handout our training coordinator gave us during training --- my feelings of frustration are right on track =) Next month I will be project ready and motivated again!

Oh yeah, I also got my propane cylinder back today! Woot!! Though I did take it as a personal challenge to find a better method and successfully get those coals lit. I think I have it down. It is all about using the small coals and building a kind of wreath so the heat just keeps building off the other lit coals. I still have to fan a bit, but now it does not take a whole day to get it started. I win.


October 31st

Happy Halloween! I made myself a pair of butterfly wings =) What are you?

Month 5 is over, 22 more to go.

Miss you all.

Thursday, September 30, 2010

September has ended...let me tell you

September 3rd

Three months in Ghana. I have been setting up my new home, trying to make it homey and give it that feeling of “mine.” On the cabinet I have arranged several pictures of family and friends, yes NAU you are there too. I made a calendar out of notebook paper, marking special days and labeling months as midway points and as nearing the end, that way when June 2012 comes around I will flip to that month and say to myself “Oh! I'll surely be home in time for Patricia's birthday!”

The power has been out for over 24 hours. It is not so bad, other than the fact that I have paid dearly with a freezer that has been given time to defrost overnight...unsupervised. As I was mourning the loss of my multi-colored blank note cards (which I had left on the floor next to my chair), was attempting to separate the pages of another notebook, and wondering if I had any more towels to clean up the water I wished and prayed for a small feeling of victory to even out this feeling of fail. The victory came in the sound of a snap, a high velocity metal against wood snap. The mouse that ate my bread...the mouse that has been waking me in the night...that bold as brass pooping jerk fell into the temptation of the delicious dab of ground nut paste I left out for him. Bwahahaha. I may have a small wading pool at the base of my fridge, but my bread is a little bit safer tonight.

My newly cemented/repaired walls are begging to be painted. I think during my next trip to Tamale I will research design ideas. I think painting a phoenix or something mythological on my walls might be fun. I am also open to ideas.

I have been trying to familiarize myself with my village. So far so good. I have figured out where to buy bread, eggs, candles, and where the old men tend to loiter so I can remember to turn and greet them as I walk by. This next Sunday I will venture out to the local Catholic church and attend the mass. In a 99% Muslim community, I am not expecting the congregation to be very big...in fact I have yet to see anyone venture toward that building at all.

The good news of the week is that I think I will have many projects when I am allowed to start projects in November after In Service Training (IST). My supervisor wants to write proposals to get grants for more funding for the nutrition center and for the school for orphans. Both buildings could use a new roof and the school could probably use a new floor if not wall repairs as well. The local veterinarian also is looking forward to the day I learn about proposal writing, he wants to appeal to some NGO to get funding for animal welfare and to build housing to keep better control of some of the local animals. Right now the animals wander freely, poo everywhere, and ownership status is a little bit questionable. Even the donkeys run freely when not tied to a cart. I can't wait for the “settling in months” to be over. I am ready to get started and to begin projects. Though today, my inactivity is largely due to the fact that it is raining and I don't feel like making the long walk to the center in the rain only to find that no one is there because it is raining and a Friday (which is generally a half day anyways for the midday call to prayer).




September 24th

Rainy day socks, two year olds, and vodka. Never these things together...well, okay, the vodka and the socks have met....but these are tools of power that one must fear, respect and use wisely. The socks are one of the most awesome super powers I have discovered. The trick with the socks is you have to put them on in earnest, a true desire to wear socks and keep ones toes safe from malicious mosquitoes. Pick your favorite pair, lovingly put them on, even double knot the bow in your shoelaces. When you are ready to go the magic, the awesome spell casting that Harry Potter himself would be jealous of takes place....as you step outside sporting those fantastic socks it begins to rain. This is not just any rain, it is a downpour, a righteous fury that mocks you and your socks. Do not fear, once you have committed yourself back to sandals the rain will drizzle and stop right until you longingly look at those socks and think it might be safe. I tell this tale because it has happened more than once, twice, and even thrice. My socks have a superpower and my toes will never be safe.

I have also discovered another destructive force and universal truth here in Ghana. Two-Year-Olds. No matter where you are in the world or what you are doing, if a child of the age of two attempts to help you with your chores it is guaranteed that you will end up with a bigger mess than you started with. My neighbors Valeria and Assia (sp?) are proof of this. They like to help me with my dishes, which means all my dish water is about to end up all over the veranda and most likely several of the dishes will need to washed and rewashed a couple of times. The other night Assia even was subject to a cold shower of sorts, she wanted to help dump the water another little girl had taken for me and kept pulling on the tub. The dirty water hit Assia full force, cold with a hint of onion. Valeria and Assia are my local favorites. Val is shy but cute as a button and Assia likes to play! She still is young and small enough that I can throw and twirl her around...I get exercise and she thinks its fantastic.

Lastly, I have become a closet drinker. Do not fear my responsible readers, its not binge drinking of the alcoholic variety. My occasional treat to myself is a small portion of vodka mixed with a sprite or fanta. My vodka of choice right now is called “Ninja.” It is cheap...as liquor goes in Ghana (if you visit anything from the duty free store, especially if it is Irish in nature, would be appreciated, I also miss a good glass of wine)...and the name is appropriate for the secrecy I take in my alcohol consumption. The Muslim community at large frowns on drinking, and beyond that it is frowned upon and not wise for a single female to go to the local spot and throw back a few beers. As far as my neighbors are concerned I don't drink and its only some orange colored drink in that cup if I have to venture outside due to lights out (which is often during storms as it gets pitch black around 5pm, Flagstaff dark skies has nothing on us). This is also a good treat to oneself after a day in which you have been asked a bazillion times if you are married and why you are not (this line of questioning is a fun pastime for Ghanaian males and feels extremely awkward). One neighbor has even mentioned that he believes my Dagbani language skills will only improve if I marry a Dagomba man. By the way my American guy friends, it is guaranteed at one point or another I will have used your name and claimed you as either an American boyfriend or husband (depending on the situation and if I am wearing my fake wedding band) at one point during my two years ion Ghana. You think being single is bad in the States, come to Ghana here I am simultaneously a phenomenon and an old maid.

In other news my room is coming along nicely. I have painted some crazy abstract-ish vines and flowers on one of my walls and stenciled in some butterflies on the small wall space between a corner and a door. I am pretty proud of the work, especially since my color options have been limited and in my clever attempt to make purple (mixing the red and blue) I was met with utter failure as red and blue seem to only make black no matter what proportions or mixing order. The black has been useful, I used it to outline the butterflies with the stencil I made with some scissors and notecards (the very ones I mourn because they got wet but did not have the heart to throw them out). I have yet to fill in the butterflies, they look kind of neat as black outlines on the white walls, and with only the abstract vines for company they do not look too out of place. I am still open to suggestions for the other walls.

My neighbor Mr. Lawrence seems like he is going to be my book buddy. He likes to read and has already expressed a desire to trade and recommend books. He is also the only neighbor that thinks calling me by my given name is better than calling me by my newly acquired Dagbani name, though he has already shortened Catherine to Cat and Kate in turn. Oh well =)

September 28th

Turns out I am a crafty person...the illusive craft gene has laid dormant for many years (probably since those girl scout days ended). Without video games to fill the time void I have found that with time and freed up brain power on my hands I can be a very constructive person.

In addition to my walls, which are coming along nicely, I have put needle to thread and hook to yarn. I figured out how to crochet a hat and even managed to make a little crocheted flower to add some flair. In addition to the hat, I turned a “pieces pieces” cloth into a blanket, lined with flour sacks on the back side. I even patched a hole on the sacks with a cutesy shaped patch and hid the seam between the two sacks with a strip of blue cloth. I admittedly stole the original idea of the blanket from another volunteer, but I added my own touches and am very proud of the outcome...that and the blanket is all snugly so I love it. I have also made what I have decided to call “origami purse” as it is made out of one uncut small rectangular piece of cloth. The purse is about the size of a wallet and has a singular pocket ion the inside (thats right origami purse even has a pocket). For a strap I used a bit of rope that was left behind by the volunteers I replaced (braided it looks very nice and will come in very useful if ever I have my new purse I find myself wishing I had some rope. Like a pocket knife, you never know when you might need rope).

I am turning into the Ghana Martha Stuart. Considering my limited resources and lack of a Micheal's I think I am doing pretty well. Ill try to post some pictures on facebook. I know I have also been lacking in that department.

In other news I have commissioned a carpenter to make a couch for me. I ordered the cheapest option available and it should be ready next Tuesday. I will call it my “napping couch” as it will come in handy for that very thing. The napping couch will also be useful and more comfortable than my current plastic chairs if ever I were to have visitors Peace Corps or otherwise **cough cough** =)

Miss you all.



September 30th

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAD!!!!!!!!

LOVE YOU LOTS!!!!!

Friday, August 27, 2010

A Home??

August 12 marked the transition from trainee to volunteer. Thats right folks, I am now a volunteer. No longer haunting the southern half of Ghana as an "obroni," I now stalk the streets in Northern Ghana as a Salimiiga (spelling?). It means the same thing but it is harder for small children to say and endlessly repeat over and over again.

After a small time in temporary housing, my permanent house is now vacant and I get to begin the moving in process. I hope to get everything unpacked within the week and begin the process of trying to figure out how to get a couch and then move said couch to my place. I am, however, really excited about the pillow and full size bed that I have inherited.

The only true down side to my new place is the varied and close proximity of loud speakers for the call to prayer. Lately the call to prayer at 2am has bled into the call to prayer at 4am. Pre-recorded sermons play throughout the morning. But gosh darn it....if I can tune out a train and college kids in Flagstaff I can tune this out or at least incorporate it into my dreams and have some crazy Dagbani/Muslim influenced dreams.

My local supervisor is pretty cool. My local counterpart is out of town until the 9th. I a in idle until then. I plan to master the market and make friends with some of the vendors. My mission is to find the lady that sells the best tomatoes, yams, oranges, and onion. They may be all different vendors, but I will find them.

It rained the other day and I was able to fill my newly acquired rain barrel. Its yellow, and probably at one point held palm oil, but it locks and its mine! Dry season will be tough, but I am taking advantage of the rain while I can. The rain also cools down the world significantly, the locals say they are freezing, I say I am in heaven...an 80 degree heaven!

Better Late Than Never

2 Months in Ghana

Today is August 1 and marks two months with Peace Corps Ghana. Training is almost over and the anticipation, excitement, and anxiety is still building. So far I have traveled to the other end of Ghana and back, twice. I enjoy both ends...but find myself liking the north more, which is luck since my permanent site will be up north. It is less humid up north, and instead of a jungle feel you get more of a lion king savannah feel. Though I have been told that when the rainy season ends all the green grasses and beauty of the north will turn into a swirling dust bowl. I will be happy to have a ceiling fan during those months. Did I mention that I will have electricity at mt site. Well, okay, sometimes (Ghana electricity is not all that reliable).

So far to date I have learned and forgotten most of my Twi. Learned a bit of Dagbani, and hopefully retained enough of it to pass my language test so I can swear n as a volunteer. I have gone by several names, to some I am Catherine, to those in Anyinasin I am Odua Ataa, and to those in Karaga I am Tiyumtaba. Tiyumtaba will be the name I am supposed to recognize and respond to for the next 2 years.

During technical training I taught children the importance of washing hands, helped dig a simple pit latrine, watched dutifully as others dug and poured cement for a Mozambique latrine, taught farmers about malaria and the importance of actually using a mosquito night, and experienced my first time being 103 temp ill in Ghana. Turns out you can get prescription medication in Ghana without a prescription and for about the equivalent of 15 cents US. The Peace Corps medical officer had me take a malaria test before prescribing meds to me, luckily I was just sick sick and not malaria sick.

I am still freaking about going to my site and staying for two years. That whole “what if I fail” thing still jumping into my head every now and then. My supervisor wants me to start a million clubs, take over a million projects, and on top of what seems plausible he also wants me to accomplish miracles. (one of which is establishing a library which two generations of volunteers have been unable to get the community excited about or even to support).

I hope to be able to much more of Ghana as well. So far I have seen two different waterfalls (Bodi and Kintampo). (don't know if I spelled either of those correctly). The waterfalls are beautiful here, especially in the lush green surroundings of Ghana. (still waiting for the rug to be pulled out from underneath me when dry season hits with its full and mighty force). We also went north to Paga and sat on a live crocodile. The locals in the area believe each crocodile is connected with a person's soul and when the person dies so does the croc (and vice versa). The crocodiles are trained to hear a chicken be held by and to stay completely still until they are given the chicken. Knowing that chicken will be theirs if they do not screw up – 13 plus volunteers were able to sit, pose, and find a new sense of bravery in regards to being in close proximity to crocodiles.

Now all that is left is to practice my language. Continue to say my mantra every night “I am safe under my net, under my net I am safe” (in addition to mosquitoes the spiders here are mach speed fast and huge!). Write letters to the peeps back home, if you do not get one please do not have your feelings hurt...I am a volunteer, have no money, and buying let alone mailing cards is expensive =P

Here is hoping that all goes well in the next couple of weeks. After swearing in I am back in the Northern Region of Ghana. Just remember to contemplate the possibility that you should visit me or send me snacks in the mail (mail snacks are delicious). I will try to post more pictures on facebook...for those of you without facebook I highly recommend you get an account or a friend with an account because my pictures are awesome!)
Missing you all. When the volunteers move out of my new home and I get to move in in early September I will post pictures so you all can see my SWEET accommodations. And when you turn on your water tap think of me hauling water or bribing some local child to do it for me (I hear children are good for manual labor).


August 8, 2010
LPI (the language test) went okay. They have not told me to go home so I am assuming, despite forgetting a lot of my vocabulary during the test, that I passed. Training is winding down. We are finding that we have more free time on our hands and are taking advantage of this fact by going to market and spending our prized walk around money. I might just get addicted to Ghanaian cloth. Others have fallen deeper down the rabbit hole and are addicted to buying the cloth and getting clothes made, but I have yet to further my habit to that point (mostly because I spent all my cedi on cloth). When I get to Karaga in a weeks time there is no doubt that I will find some unsuspecting seamstress to turn my small cache into a glorious and brightly colored wardrobe. Right now my favorite is a “pieces pieces” which is scraps of cloth a seamstress has sewn together to make 2 yards of fabric...I use it as a blanket. Undoubtedly when I return to the states my closest and dearest will get “pieces pieces” as gifts. You will look at it like I am a mad woman, but it is my fond memory and it is the thought that counts.

A whole new batch of Peace Corps Ghana Trainees swear in on the 12th. God hep us. I a looking forward to getting to my site and taking full advantage of our three month “get to know your community” grace period. Not really supposed to start any projects during this time...just supposed to familiarize and attempt to integrate. I hope to practice my Dagbani, revel in the fact that I can finally unpack my bags, meet the neighbors, and tell a million children not to call me selimiiga (spelling?), which roughly translates to “white lady.” My homestay sister in Anyinasin is still talking about me telling off a kid (young teens) who knew my real name, but insisted on calling me or muttering “obroni” every time I walked past. Obroni also translates into white person/foreigner. “Yen fre mae obroni!” or Don't call me obroni was all I said to this kid, but the quick snap and toilet paper in hand made my homestay sister burst out laughing and resulted in the telling of the event to all the neighbors. The teen went home soon afterward, but victory was mine as he now uses my given name or my Twi name when I am in earshot.

Today volunteers/trainees will play against the trainers in a soccer match. As I am uncoordinated and seem to be content with finding every hole or rock that can trip me up, I will be watching intently and cheering my fellow trainees on. I make an excellent cheerleader...besides someone has to take pictures to record the moment for posterity.

I am still working on writing cards to folks back home. Some are written and others are in progress. Someday I will pass by a post office and mail them out...I am thinking when I go through Tamale again on my way to my site. Miss you all. You really should come and visit. Bucket baths are not that bad.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Lost My Camera

My camera is nowhere to be found....I am pretty bummed about it. Hopefully my parents can send me a new digital soon.

Vision quest was fun. There are goats everywhere and the children in the village are a lot of fun. We made paper airplanes for a bunch of school children. They really enjoyed them and took great care to make sure the planes did not get damaged when they joined in on some other games being played during their break. I think my origami skills might get handy when/if I get out of training and to my permanent site! woot.

Northern Ghana is nicer weather wise. Less humidity. If I could swing it, I would like to have a site somewhere in the north. Though If my luck is anything like my camera keeping skills I will probably end up in the south.

We start training next week! We will finally learn more about our assignments, what we will be doing, language that we actually need to learn (Twi was not the spoken language in the region of my vision quest), and hopefully most questions will get answered.

It is kind of expensive to buy Ghanaian cards and even more expensive to mail them out. So if you do not get a card right away please do not let your feelings get hurt. Just remember my immediate family is big and so is their priority. My PD peeps, I will try to send a card to the department I have not forgotten about you....just living on a volunteer's salary.

I tried goat meat. Not my favorite meat in the world. A little grainy and fatty. The goats are everywhere in Ghana. This morning there were hundreds of them just sleeping in the roads. The metro (a gov't bus w/o AC) had to go slow while the goats woke up and moved out of the way...but the metro did not slow for the dog in the road (poor doggy). I hear the dogs here are mean though, and if I do not want rabies I should keep a healthy distance from them.

If any of you are thinking "Hey, lets send a care package" here are some things I found that are not sold here but would be nifty to have:

Headlamp (for going potty in the dark)
Nutella
Shampoo
Sun Lotion Higher than 20spf
Tuna or Chicken in those serving size bags located next to the canned tuna in your local store The bagged ones would totally be sweet!!)
Crystal Light packets
Cookies
Hard Candy

Anything fun or homey

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

14 Hours of travel = one sore bum

I wasn't expecting internet time....sooo with a surprise internet connection come a little update. I am well and freaking hot (humid sticky hot). A small group of us just finished a 14 hour bus ride North to Tamale to stay the night a regional office before wee continue on tomorrow to our assigned sites to shadow different volunteers.

Ghana is beautiful. Hopefully I will be able to post a picture soon.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

On My Way

**Disclaimer** The views and opinions are not those of the Peace Corps and are solely that of the author.** =P

Today is my last day stateside and I do not know when my next opportunity for internet will be. I am the whole spectrum of emotion right now...anxious, excited, overwhelmed, excited, sad, happy, excited...you get the idea.

My bags are packed and I probably packed more than needed...but I will probably also get to Ghana and realize something I forgot that really did need. That is life. My luggage, bike helmet, and I fly out at O'dark 30 this morning, June 1 , and will have a brief visit into the Philly area before heading out to Ghana on June 3rd. (I hope at some point I get to see an elephant...or hippo)

I still do not know the full extent of my duties in Ghana...but I think that adds to the adventure of it. I am off to do something new, make new friends, see new things....and hopefully do detrimental damage to the mosquito population.

Love and Miss you all.

Catherine